Skin Undertone: The Color Guide to Enhance Melanin-Rich Skin
Very often, we don’t know our skin undertone. Yet, it plays a key role in choosing makeup, clothing, and even jewelry that enhance our complexion.
During our recent public events such as the Natural Hair Academy and in pharmacies, our dermo-cosmetic advisors noticed that nearly 80% of clients didn’t know their undertone. This lack of knowledge impacts how well the complexion is enhanced. This applies to all skin phototypes (I to VI), regardless of their priorities: hyperpigmentation, dark spots, acne, wrinkles...
"I struggle to find my undertone because of surface redness. I think I’m cool, but I’m not sure." – customer testimony, skin diagnosis, June 2025
Consumers often have a subjective vision of their skin type (normal, oily…), and even more so of their undertone. As a result, they struggle to identify the right products that truly brighten their complexion.
What is a skin undertone and why is it important?
Your undertone is the chromatic DNA of your skin. Unlike the phototype (which defines your reaction to the sun), it never changes.
It influences how light is reflected on your face and explains why the way you apply makeup or dress can either brighten or dull your complexion.
We distinguish three main undertones:
| Undertones | Characteristics | Celebrity examples |
|---|---|---|
| Warm | Golden/yellow reflections, sun-kissed tone | Beyoncé, Idris Elba |
| Cool | Pinkish/bluish reflections, centered glow | Naomi Campbell, Dev Patel |
| Neutral | Balance of warm and cool | Aïssa Maïga, Omar Sy |
Discover tips to identify your undertone
Before starting your analysis, make sure you are exposed to natural daylight in a well-lit space. Your skin should be free of makeup or cream.
1. The White Paper Test
- If your skin appears yellow/golden → warm undertone
- If it appears pinkish/bluish → cool undertone
- If it seems balanced, with no dominant shade → neutral undertone
2. The Vein Test
- Green veins → warm undertone
- Blue/purple veins → cool undertone
- A mix of both → neutral undertone
3. The Jewelry Test
- If gold jewelry enhances your glow → warm undertone
- If silver jewelry flatters your skin more → cool undertone
- If both suit you equally → neutral undertone
With these 3 methods, you can now define your undertone. However, you can still consult a cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic professional, or your dermatologist.
Technological methods
During our events, we used our SkinAnalysIA tool, powered by artificial intelligence, to help clients better understand the state of their skin: dryness, hydration, enlarged pores, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, pimples, scars… (on dark or brown skin).
This tool offers an innovative approach that complements professional expertise.
For Black, brown, and mixed-race skin, we recommend a quick, free, and personalized skin diagnosis.
Access your personalized skin diagnosis.
How to prepare your skin before makeup?
A successful makeup look always starts with careful skin preparation.
According to Vogue Africa (2024), a proper skincare routine improves makeup wear by up to 60%.
- Cleanse your skin with the Purifying Cleansing Foam or the Exfoliating Cleansing Gel
- Use the Mattifying Unifying Care (which can also serve as a makeup base) or the Hydrating Unifying Care depending on your skin type
- Finish with the SPF50 Solar Fluid to protect your skin from sun damage even in autumn
1. Which makeup to choose according to your undertone?
You want to shine and highlight your complexion? Depending on your skin tone and undertone, your makeup choice is crucial. For example, two people with phototype 5 won’t necessarily have the same undertone, while two people with different phototypes may share the same undertone.
Be inspired by the Fall/Winter 2025 trends:
- Nude Glow: natural complexion, liquid highlighter, rosy or terracotta lips
- Colorful Smoky: deep violet, intense copper
- Matte Lips: plum and brick dominate the runways
- Glossy lips / Juicy lips: shiny, plump lips
Color guide by undertone
| Undertone | Eyes / Eyelids | Face / Complexion | Lips |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Warm browns, copper, terracotta, bronze | Golden or honey foundation, peach/coral blush | Orange-red, warm nude, terracotta |
| Cool | Taupe, cool plum, smoky gray, silver | Ivory/pink beige foundation, pale pink blush | Cool pink, plum, rosy nude |
| Neutral | Medium brown, champagne, neutral copper | Neutral foundation, peachy pink blush | Neutral nude, subtle coral |
2. How to enhance your hair color according to your undertone?
Blonde, black, or caramel? Which shade to choose? The right hair color brings harmony to your face and brightens your complexion, while the wrong shade can make it look dull.
Hair guide by undertone
| Undertone | Braids | Wigs | Natural Hair / Coloring |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Golden honey, copper, auburn | Warm chocolate brown, caramel ombré | Caramel balayage, copper highlights |
| Cool | Dark plum, midnight blue, deep violet | Bluish black, icy brown | Intense burgundy, cool chestnut |
| Neutral | Medium chocolate brown, soft mahogany | Brown with honey/plum highlights | Hazelnut reflections, chocolate balayage |
3. How to style your outfits according to your undertone?
Want to highlight your complexion and find the colors that suit you best? Knowing your undertone guides you in choosing clothes: some shades brighten your face while others can make it look dull. This applies to both women and men.
Fashion guide by undertone
| Undertone | Clothing colors | Fall 2025 Outfit Ideas |
|---|---|---|
| Warm | Burnt orange, terracotta, mustard | Camel coat + terracotta sweater |
| Cool | Royal blue, plum, pearl gray, silver | Violet blazer + pearl gray pants |
| Neutral | Nude beige, bottle green, chocolate brown | Dark green midi skirt + nude top |
4. How to style jewelry according to your undertone?
Gold or silver? Bronze? This choice doesn’t only depend on personal taste. Whether it’s a necklace, earrings, bracelet, or even a ring, choosing the right accessories can brighten your look and bring harmony to your outfit. And since jewelry is ultra-trendy this year, there are options for every budget.
Jewelry guide by undertone
| Undertone | Metals | Stones & Colors | Fall 2025 Styles |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Yellow gold, rose gold, bronze | Amber, citrine, carnelian | Gold hoops, chunky bracelets |
| Cool | Silver, white gold, platinum | Amethyst, sapphire, rose quartz | Silver necklaces, delicate rings |
| Neutral | Mix of gold & silver, polished steel | Pearls, opal, smoky quartz |
5. The Finishing Touch
Your undertone does not influence the choice of your perfume, but fragrance remains the final touch of your beauty routine. It completes your style, affirms your personality, and leaves an unforgettable impression.
In summary, knowing your undertone means better understanding yourself and knowing how to enhance your features. You gain confidence and shine even more, because every detail—makeup, hairstyle, clothing, or accessories—becomes your beauty ally.
FAQ Express
Q: How to choose foundation for Black skin?
→ Test along the jawline, in natural daylight. Choose inclusive brands like Fenty Beauty or NARS.
Q: Does undertone change with age?
→ No, it remains stable throughout life.
Q: Why does my foundation make me look gray?
→ Your shade is too light or too pink. Opt for a golden or neutral foundation.
Q: How to easily recognize your undertone?
→ Look at your veins, test the effect of gold/silver jewelry, or get a professional diagnosis.
Q: What is chromatic DNA?
→ Chromatic DNA is the sum of different colors, weighted and linked to our personal history, making it a unique code for each individual (Mercadier).
Q: Undertone vs phototype: what’s the difference?
→ Phototype measures your skin’s reaction to the sun, while undertone is a stable and deeper characteristic of your skin.
For more details, check out our full article: How to know the undertone of Black or mixed-race skin .