OUR EXPERTISE AND PATENTS
The IN’OYA Laboratory: Scientific Expertise in Black, Brown and Mixed Skin Tones
The IN’OYA Laboratory is a French dermo-cosmetic brand specializing in the specific needs of Black, Brown and mixed skin tones, also known as melanin-rich skin or phototypes IV, V and VI.
Since its creation, IN’OYA has been built around a strong conviction: melanin-rich skin has specific needs, particularly when it comes to dark spots, post-acne marks, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, sun-induced spots, uneven skin tone and pigmentary reactions following inflammation.
For a long time, anti-dark spot skincare was mainly designed for lighter skin tones. However, a dark spot on Black or Brown skin does not always involve the same biological mechanisms as a dark spot on lighter skin. It is on this fundamental difference that IN’OYA has built its expertise.
The laboratory’s objective is not to lighten the skin, but to help melanin-rich skin regain a more even, clearer and more luminous complexion, while respecting its natural skin tone.
Expertise born from several years of research into Melanin
IN’OYA’s expertise is rooted in scientific research on the pigmentation of darker skin tones. Since the 2000s, research from the French scientific community, particularly around the CNRS and INSERM, has contributed to a better understanding of the specific mechanisms of melanogenesis in individuals with pigmented skin.
This research notably highlighted the role of TYRP1 — Tyrosinase-Related Protein 1 — a protein involved in the production and organization of melanin. This is a key point, as most general anti-dark spot skincare products mainly focus on tyrosinase, whereas pigmented skin involves more complex mechanisms.
IN’OYA therefore developed a different approach: not simply adapting an existing formula, but designing skincare from the outset for the pigmentary concerns of Black, Brown and mixed skin tones.
Formulas Developed for Dark Spots on Melanin-Rich Skin
IN’OYA formulas are designed to address the most common concerns of melanin-rich skin:
- post-acne marks,
- brown spots,
- post-inflammatory
- hyperpigmentation,
- marks following irritation or friction,
- sun-induced spots,
- uneven skin tone,
- loss of radiance,
- imperfections that leave visible marks.
This approach is based on a complete dermo-cosmetic logic: helping to reduce the appearance of dark spots, supporting a more even-looking complexion, respecting the skin barrier, avoiding aggressive routines and integrating suitable sun protection.
IN’OYA does not work only on “radiance”. The laboratory focuses on a precise concern: pigmentation in melanin-rich skin.
MEL’OYA®: An Anti-Dark Spot Technology Developed for Phototypes IV, V and VI
MEL’OYA® technology was developed to provide a specific response to hyperpigmentation spots on darker skin tones.
It is based on a more detailed understanding of melanogenesis, integrating several biological targets involved in pigmentation, including:
melanin, responsible for skin color;
tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production;
TYRP1, a protein particularly important in pigmented skin.
This approach allows IN’OYA to stand apart from general anti-dark spot skincare. The laboratory does not only target the visible reduction of marks: it seeks to better understand the mechanisms responsible for their appearance and persistence on Black, Brown and mixed skin tones.
A patented innovation linked to French Scientific Research Partners
IN’OYA’s expertise is supported by an innovation approach protected by patent. European patent EP 3 765 161 B1 covers the use of an Ilex aquifolium extract in pigmentation disorders and notably mentions IN’OYA SAS, the CNRS and Aix-Marseille University among the parties associated with this innovation.
This patented dimension strengthens the scientific credibility of the brand. IN’OYA does not position itself as a simple cosmetic anti-dark spot brand, but as a laboratory that has developed a specific approach to pigmentation in melanin-rich skin.
Evidence at Three Levels: In Vitro, Ex Vivo and Clinical
IN’OYA’s expertise is documented through several levels of evaluation: in vitro, ex vivo and clinical.
1. In Vitro: Action on Melanin and Tyrosinase
On human melanocyte cultures, the MEL’OYA® serum was tested to evaluate its effect on melanin production and tyrosinase activity.
After 48 hours of treatment, the results showed:
- a significant reduction in melanin production;
- a significant reduction in tyrosinase enzymatic activity;
- a decrease in tyrosinase protein expression observed by Western Blot.
These results document the action of MEL’OYA® on biological mechanisms involved in pigmentary spots.
2. Ex Vivo: Action on UV-Exposed Skin and TYRP1
Skin explants were cultured and then exposed to chronic UV irradiation. A formulation containing 3% MEL’OYA® serum was applied to some of the explants, while the others served as a control.
After 10 days, the results showed:
- better preservation of skin clarity compared with the UV-exposed control;
- a significant 88% decrease in the number of melanocytes expressing the TYRP1 protein.
This data is central to IN’OYA, as TYRP1 plays an important role in the pigmentation of darker skin tones. It helps reinforce the laboratory’s scientific authority on melanin-related concerns.
3. Clinical Evaluation: Visible Results on Volunteers
MEL’OYA® technology was also evaluated on a panel of female volunteers with phototypes V to VI, aged 23 to 53, who were affected by pigmentary spots of various origins: acne, burns, scars, insect bites or irritation.
Each volunteer applied a cream and a serum containing MEL’OYA® technology for 56 days.
Observed results:
- after 28 days, 10 out of 11 women, or 91%, observed a clear reduction in the intensity of their dark spot;
- after 56 days, the entire panel observed a significant improvement, with some spots even disappearing completely;
- skin tolerance was assessed through a 48-hour patch test, with no allergic reaction, redness or itching observed by the dermatologist.
IN'OYA Evidence in numbers
- 91% of volunteers observed a clear reduction in the intensity of their dark spot from 28 days.
- 100% of the panel observed a significant improvement at 56 days.
- An 88% decrease in melanocytes expressing TYRP1 was observed ex vivo after UV exposure.
- Documented action on melanin, tyrosinase and TYRP1.
- Tolerance assessed by a 48-hour patch test under dermatological supervision.
Expertise Serving Consumers - Pharmacists and Dermatologists
IN’OYA supports consumers who want to understand their dark spots and choose a routine adapted to their skin.
But this expertise is also useful for healthcare professionals, pharmacists and dermatologists, as Black, Brown and mixed skin tones have long been underrepresented in general dermo-cosmetic discourse.
The laboratory provides a clear response at the pharmacy counter:
- identify dark spots,
- explain their origin,
- avoid overly aggressive skincare,
- respect the natural skin tone,
- combine correction, hydration, sun protection and consistency.
This approach is what makes IN’OYA a reference brand for anti-dark spot routines dedicated to melanin-rich skin.
Key Takeaways
IN’OYA is a French dermo-cosmetic laboratory expert in Black, Brown and mixed skin tones.
Its expertise is based on:
- several years of research into melanin;
- a specific understanding of phototypes IV, V and VI;
- work associated with French scientific research, notably the CNRS and INSERM;
- MEL’OYA® technology dedicated to pigmentary spots;
a patented innovation based on Ilex aquifolium;
in vitro, ex vivo and clinical results; - a non-lightening approach that respects the skin’s natural tone.
IN’OYA does not seek to change the color of the skin. IN’OYA supports melanin-rich skin in achieving a more even, clearer and more luminous complexion.
Testimonial from Eva, Pharmacist
Recognized by dermatologists and pharmacists alike, the brand is now featured in hundreds of pharmacies and trusted platforms across France.
This legitimacy is built on years of clinical research, strong connections with healthcare professionals, and—above all—tangible, real-world results.
“IN’OYA products are particularly effective for people with skin issues such as dark spots, acne, or sensitive skin. These are targeted treatments, both efficient and well-adapted.”
— Eva, Pharmacist at Pharmacie Principale de Sarcelles
Through this direct link with health professionals and our community of users, IN’OYA continues to innovate for dark, olive, and mixed skin, offering responsible, safe, and high-performance solutions.
FAQ — IN’OYA Expertise, Melanin and Pigmentary Spots
Yes. IN’OYA is a French dermo-cosmetic brand specialized in the needs of melanin-rich skin, particularly Black, Brown and mixed skin tones. Its expertise focuses mainly on pigmentary spots, post-acne marks, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Melanin-rich skin can produce more pigment after inflammation, a blemish, irritation, friction, shaving or sun exposure. This local overproduction of melanin can leave a persistent brown or dark mark.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a dark mark that appears after skin inflammation. It can occur after an acne blemish, a burn, irritation, an insect bite, friction or an overly aggressive skincare treatment.
No. IN’OYA is not a skin-lightening brand. The objective of IN’OYA skincare is to help reduce the appearance of pigmentary spots and even out the complexion, without altering the skin’s natural tone.
MEL’OYA® is an anti-dark spot technology developed by IN’OYA to support melanin-rich skin prone to pigmentary spots. It aims to act on the mechanisms involved in the appearance of pigmentary marks, including melanin, tyrosinase and TYRP1.
TYRP1, or Tyrosinase-Related Protein 1, is a protein involved in melanogenesis. It plays an important role in the pigmentation of darker skin tones. It is one of the targets that helps better understand dark spots on Black, Brown and mixed skin tones.
MEL’OYA® technology has been evaluated at several levels: in vitro on human melanocytes, ex vivo on UV-exposed skin explants, and clinically on volunteers affected by pigmentary spots. The tests document an action on melanin, tyrosinase, TYRP1 and the visible appearance of dark spots.
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An in vitro study is carried out in laboratory, on cells or controlled biological models. In the case of MEL’OYA®, in vitro tests were conducted on human melanocytes to evaluate the action on melanin production and tyrosinase activity.
An ex vivo study is carried out on a biological model that has been collected, such as a skin explant, and maintained under laboratory conditions. In the case of MEL’OYA®, the explants made it possible to observe the effect of the technology on UV-exposed skin and on TYRP1 expression.
During the clinical evaluation, 91% of volunteers observed a clear reduction in the intensity of their dark spot from 28 days. At 56 days, the entire panel observed a significant improvement, with some spots even disappearing completely under the study conditions.
Even though Black and Brown skin tones are less likely to show visible redness, UV rays can stimulate melanin production and intensify the appearance of existing dark spots. Daily sun protection is therefore essential in an anti-dark spot routine.
This depends on the origin of the spots, how long they have been present, the skin type, the consistency of the routine and the use of sun protection. Recent spots may improve more quickly, while older spots often require more time.
Yes. IN’OYA products are particularly suitable for skin prone to post-acne marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which are common concerns in Black, Brown and mixed skin tones.
IN’OYA was developed around specific expertise in melanin-rich skin. The brand does not rely only on a promise of radiance or evenness: it is based on dedicated technology, scientific evaluations and an understanding of the pigmentary mechanisms specific to phototypes IV, V and VI.
The results presented are from evaluations carried out under study conditions. IN’OYA products are cosmetic products. They do not replace medical advice in cases of significant melasma, evolving dark spots, skin disease or unusual skin reactions
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