It is known that black, matte and mixed skin ages less quickly than Caucasian skin. In general, skin aging is a physiological process naturally programmed since our birth but which is also under the influence of various environmental factors (our diet, our place of residence (city or village), our lifestyle etc.).

We thus classify two categories of factors : The factors for which we can do nothing, which come to us from our parents and the extrinsic factors or in other words environmental factors on which we can act to limit the aging of the skin 

Before explaining why black skin ages less quickly, it is important to understand first of all the functioning of our skin as a whole regardless of ethnicity.

How does our skin age ?

Over the years, our skin evolves and will be subject to changes.   From the age of 30/35, we can see with the naked eye that it thins, that it becomes drier and more dehydrated. It loses elasticity and firmness which has made it go from a toned and bright appearance to a much more withered and dull appearance. We can also observe the appearance of wrinkles or aging spots.

And if we zoom in a little more, what happens inside ?

We observe :

A thinning of the skin : the skin is subdivided into 3 layers : the epidermis and the dermis, connected to each other thanks to the dermo-epidermal junction (JDE) and more particularly thanks to its anchoring fibers. With age its fibers decrease and then disappear and the JDE is annihilated. The epidermis and the dermis are joined together hence the thinning of the skin without modifying the thickness of these two layers. There is also a slowdown in the cell renewal of keratinocytes (main skin cells) and an alteration in the desquamation process (removal of the skin, sensation of peeling) which becomes less important.

The skin is more dehydrated : The sebaceous and sweat glands are less active, the synthesis of lipids, hyaluronic acid and the production of natural moisturizing factors (NMF) of the skin are decreased. Thus the hydrolipidic film and the intercellular cement (ceramides) are deteriorated, the skin can no longer regulate the evaporation of water and is dried.  

Sagging skin : The skin has a fibrillar network made up of collagen and elastin fibers. They allow the skin to be firm, resistant and elastic. Over time these fibers decrease which leads to a loss of suppleness and firmness of the skin.

More fragile skin: The decrease in the number of melanocytes (10/20% per decade after 30 years) and Langerhans cells (cells responsible for protecting the skin) lead to a decrease in the immune response. The skin is then less armed in the face of external aggressions (bacteria, viruses, pollution, etc.).  

But why does dark skin age less quickly ?

We all know this expression : " Black don't crack " but does black skin really take 10 more years to age compared to other skin types?

Here is an example to understand this theory a little more:

Source: weheartit.com

You should know that physiologically, black, matte and mixed skin are better equipped against the aging of the skin. As written earlier, our skin has a fibrillary network consisting of :

-          Collagen fibers to ensure firmness

-          Elastin fibers to guarantee the elasticity and resistance of the skin. Thanks to them, it can return to its original position when it is pinched or stretched.

These fibers being difficult to renew, each individual has a certain stock, which is why with age, these fibers end up degrading and decreasing leaving the skin this relaxed and withered appearance.  

Unlike Caucasian skin, pigmented skin is better able to retain its fibrillary networks. Collagen fibers are more numerous and denser, and elastic fibers are mostly undegraded elastic fibers. Thanks to its characteristics they persist longer. Therefore dark skin is naturally firmer and more resistant in the long term which delays the appearance of wrinkles at the age of 50 or 60 years.

In addition, the skin is made up of melanocytes. They synthesize melanin. Its main role is skin pigmentation, so its amount confers the color of our skin. Thus melanocytes are more active in black, matte and mixed skin. Its second role is photo-protective because it has the ability to absorb UV radiation from the sun. It will therefore fight against the skin damage caused by these radiations which are considered the first external cause of skin aging. It is often said that black skin is naturally protected from the sun, it is thanks to their amounts of melanin and this photo-protective role that they are indeed assimilated to an SPF 15, or a UVB filtration of 93.37%.. Pigmented skin is therefore less sensitive to the sun and its damage, which allows it to keep longer.

By this fact, it is considered that a black skin will take 10 years longer to age than a Caucasian skin. This does not mean that black skin does not age. In order to preserve its natural conservation and limit the appearance of wrinkles, it is advisable to use anti-aging treatments adapted to the specificities of pigmented skin and to adopt a healthy lifestyle (protect yourself from the sun, pollution, limit tobacco etc.). This also requires good hydration. Indeed, black, matte and mixed skin lacks ceramides and are then naturally more dehydrated. It is therefore important to fill this gap in order to counterbalance skin aging related to dehydration.