The skin around your eyes is the first to show the first signs of fatigue, dehydration or skin aging. It is a very specific skin area that requires a special routine and adapted to its needs.

Indeed, it is often forgotten for lack of focusing preferentially on the needs and problems of the skin of his face or too solicited by the application of many treatments without really knowing their distinctions and their benefits.

There is on the market a variety of eye contour treatments with each clearly defined objectives: anti-spots, anti-dark circles, anti-puffiness, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging etc. 

It is therefore important to understand these different issues to be able to select the treatment that will correspond to your needs and thus make a personalized routine that will aim to sublimate your look.  

What are the different types of dark circles ?

Peri-orbital hyperpigmentation or " dark circles " are very generalized terms because there are actually different subtypes of dark circles. Specific or not to pigmented skin, they have very varied origins.

Pigment dark circles or hyperpigmentation spots

Specific to black and matte skin, pigmented dark circles refer to hyperpigmentation spots because they are brown/black in color and therefore darken the area around the eyes. Of hereditary, hormonal, solar and post-inflammatory origins, they are caused by an overproduction of melanogenesis which generates an accumulation of melanin pigments. To treat them, your eye contour care must therefore be composed of anti-tyrosinase and anti-tyrp1 active ingredients in order to actively block this melanic overactivation.

Vascular dark circles 

Vascular dark circles are mainly present in matte, mixed and Caucasian skin. Of blue / purple colors they are the reflection of the blood capillaries present in the area around the eyes. Indeed, blood flow is slowed down by internal factors (genetics, stress) or external factors (fatigue, tobacco or alcohol consumption). This causes venous stasis and an accumulation of vascular pigments (hemoglobin and bilirubin) that appear under the thin skin of the eyelids.   To treat them, your eye care must contain venotonic active ingredients such as caffeine (the best known) but also green melon oil for example.   They will boost blood circulation and thus reduce the accumulation of blood pigments.

Hollow rings or structural rings

Present in all skin tones, hollow dark circles can be genetic or related to skin aging. They are caused by the thinning of the skin and the sagging of the cheekbones caused by the melting of fat and muscle tissues. A hollow then forms on the lower eyelid between the orbicular muscle and the lifting muscle of the wing of the nose. This creates a shadow effect on the lower eyelid which darkens the dark circle. Its treatment is the longest because it requires care composed of plumping active ingredients in order to restore density to the hollowed out eyelid. They can also be treated with aesthetic medicine through injections of hyaluronic acid for example.

What are the different types of pockets ?

A pouch is a swelling of the lower eyelid that testifies to poor blood and lymphatic circulation. There are two types, each with a distinct origin.

Aqueous pockets 

Aqueous pockets are caused by water retention. They are very often associated with an unhealthy lifestyle : excessive consumption of alcohol, tobacco, foods rich in salt or lack of sleep. They appear in the form of diffuse swelling over the entire lower eyelid (uni-compartment) and are mostly reversible during the day. To treat them, use a treatment composed of decongestant active ingredients such as caffeine or ruscogenin and perform a draining self-massage when applied. The cold is also ideal for this (little tip : put spoons in the fridge and put them on your eyelids, immediate decongestant effect)

Fat pockets 

Fat or lipid pockets are genetic or related to skin aging. They are caused by the melting of adipose tissue and its displacement in the lymphatic system. Indeed, clumps of fat cells can then become blocked in the vessels and create a " fat hernia". Unlike aqueous pockets, these appear as islands or compartments and persist over time. To treat them, it is possible in the first attention to select a care composed of decongestant active ingredients with lipolytic action such as buckwheat black wheat wax for example. If this persists, aesthetic medicine then proposes a technique without surgery called blepharoplasty.

What are the different types of wrinkles ?

It is true that black, matte and mixed skin ages more slowly than Caucasian skin. However, the appearance of wrinkles is a common problem for different skin tones, whether or not they are related to skin aging.  

Dehydration fine lines 

Dehydration fine lines can appear as early as the age of 25. They are represented by small shallow furrows preferably present on the eye contour because of its skin specificities. They testify to the dehydration of the skin. To eliminate them, ideally drink 1 liter and a half of water per day and apply a moisturizing eye contour care. It may contain active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or aloe vera for example.

Expression wrinkles or dynamic wrinkles 

Expression wrinkles are a reflection of our daily mimics over time. Hereditary origins or related to skin aging, they are the result of a loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin associated with repeated muscle contractions. Those around the eyes are called crow's feet wrinkles. To treat them, it is necessary to apply an anti-aging eye contour treatment composed of plumping active ingredients such as baobab and hibiscus pulp and perform a relaxing and draining self-massage to release muscle tension and boost cell renewal.

Age wrinkles or static wrinkles

Age wrinkles are caused by the aging of the skin. They appear in black and matte skin around 40-45 years. Indeed, with age the skin thins, loses elasticity and firmness, becomes dehydrated and becomes more fragile. By its specificities, the eye area is the first skin area to bear witness to the signs of aging with the appearance of this type of wrinkles. To reduce them, you need an anti-wrinkle and anti-aging eye contour care rich in plumping and moisturizing active ingredients.

The specific problem of eczema and psoriasis of the eyelids 

An eye contour treatment is not suitable to overcome dermatoses such as eczema or psoriasis of the eyelids. These problems are the responsibility of the medical community. They therefore require the advice of a pharmacist or doctor to obtain an effective treatment.

Eyelid eczema

Are your eyelids dry, dehydrated, red and swollen ? They itch and sometimes ooze? It is then an eczema. It can occur according to two types of origin :

• Contact or allergic eczema:  Contact dermatitis is an inflammatory reaction created by the skin in contact with an allergen. It can be caused, for example, by the application of a cosmetic treatment.  
• Atopic eczema: Atopic dermatitis is hereditary. It is a genetic hypersensitivity to the environment (dust, pollen, animal hair etc.)

Facial psoriasis

Do you observe dander (white patches) and very limited red spots around your eyes ? Is itching ? This is the particular form of psoriasis called psoriasis of the face. These clinical manifestations can also appear on the contour of your mouth, ears and wings of the nose. It is a reaction of the immune system following external aggression or stress for example. It is very often confused with seborrheic dermatitis which is why it is important to consult a doctor in order to get a good skin diagnosis.

For these two dermatoses, the objective is to :

• Repair the skin by restructuring its natural protective barriers by favoring emollient treatments (based on shea butter for example), which respect the pH of the skin, promote gentle and non-aggressive cleansers for the skin
• Soothe the skin by calming inflammation and itching with anti-inflammatory creams prescribed by the doctor.

 As you have understood, the skin around the eyes is subject to various problems. Knowing how to differentiate them therefore makes it possible to understand what type of care must be selected to obtain an effective routine. Thus, you will get a sublimated eye contour and an awakened look.