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How to differentiate the problems of the eye area ?

  eye contour problems

The skin around your eyes is the first to show the first signs of fatigue, dehydration or skin aging. It is a very specific skin area that requires a special routine adapted to its needs. In fact, this area is often forgotten because of a lack of focus on the needs and problems of the skin on the face, or because it is overly solicited by the application of numerous skin care products without really knowing their distinctions and benefits.

There are a variety of eye contour products on the market, each with clearly defined objectives: anti-spot, anti-dark circle, anti-puffiness, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, etc. 

It is therefore important to understand these different problems in order to be able to select the care that corresponds to your needs and thus create a personalized routine that will aim to enhance your eyes. 

What are the different types of dark circles ?

Periorbital hyperpigmentation or "dark circles" are very generalized terms because there are in fact different subtypes of dark circles. They may or may not be specific to pigmented skin and have a wide variety of origins.

Pigmented dark circles or hyperpigmentation spots

Specific to black and brown skin, pigmented dark circles refer to hyperpigmentation spots because they are brown/black in color and therefore darken the area around the eyes. Hereditary, hormonal, solar and post-inflammatory in origin, they are caused by an overproduction of melanogenesis, which leads to an accumulation of melanin pigments. To treat them, your eye contour care must therefore be composed of anti-tyrosinase and anti-tyrp1 active ingredients in order to actively block this melanic overactivation.pigmented dark circles

Vascular dark circles

Vascular dark circles are mostly present in brown, mixed race and Caucasian skin. Blue/purple in color, they reflect the blood capillaries present in the eye contour area. Indeed, blood flow is slowed down by internal factors (genetics, stress) or external factors (fatigue, smoking or alcohol consumption). This leads to venous stasis and an accumulation of vascular pigments (hemoglobin and bilirubin) that show through under the thin skin of the eyelids.  To treat these problems, your eye care product must contain active venotonics such as caffeine (the most well-known) but also green melon oil for example.  They will boost blood circulation and thus reduce the accumulation of blood pigments.

Hollow or structural dark circles

Present in all skin tones, hollow circles can be genetic or linked to skin aging. They are caused by thinning of the skin and sagging of the cheekbones due to the melting of fatty and muscular tissue. A hollow forms on the lower eyelid between the orbicularis muscle and the elevator muscle of the nose wing. This creates a shadow effect on the lower eyelid, which darkens the dark circles. Its treatment is the most time-consuming because it requires care composed of plumping active ingredients to restore density to the hollowed eyelid. They can also be treated by aesthetic medicine with hyaluronic acid injections for example.

What are the different types of bags ?

A bag is a swelling of the lower eyelid that indicates poor blood and lymphatic circulation. There are two types, each with a distinct origin.

Aqueous bags

Watery bags are caused by water retention. They are very often associated with a poor lifestyle: excessive consumption of alcohol, tobacco, foods rich in salt or lack of sleep. They appear as a diffuse swelling over the entire lower eyelid (uni-compartment) and are mostly reversible during the day. To treat them, use a treatment composed of decongesting active ingredients such as caffeine or ruscogenin and perform a draining self-massage during its application. Cold is also ideal for this (little tip: put spoons in the fridge and put them on your eyelids, immediate decongesting effect)

Fatty pockets

Fatty or lipid pockets are genetic or linked to skin aging. They are caused by the melting of adipose tissue and its displacement into the lymphatic system. Indeed, clusters of fat cells can then become blocked in the vessels and create a "fat hernia". Unlike watery pockets, these appear in the form of islands or compartments and persist over time. To treat them, it is possible to select a treatment composed of decongesting active ingredients with a lipolytic action, such as buckwheat wax for example. If the problem persists, aesthetic medicine offers a non-surgical technique called blepharoplasty.

What are the different types of wrinkles ?

It is true that black, brown and mixed-race skin ages more slowly than Caucasian skin. However, the appearance of wrinkles is a problem common to all skin tones, whether or not they are related to skin aging. 

Dehydration lines

Dehydration lines can appear as early as age 25. They are represented by small, shallow furrows that are preferentially present around the eyes due to their specific cutaneous characteristics. They are a sign of skin dehydration. To eliminate them, you should ideally drink 1.5 liters of water per day and apply a moisturizing eye contour care product. It can contain active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or aloe vera for example.

Expression lines or dynamic wrinkles

Expression lines are the reflection of our daily expressions over time. Hereditary in origin or linked to skin aging, they are the result of a loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin associated with repeated muscle contractions. Those around the eyes are called crow's feet wrinkles. To treat them, you must apply an anti-aging eye contour care composed of plumping active ingredients such as baobab and hibiscus pulp and perform a relaxing and draining self-massage in order to release muscular tension and boost cell renewal.

Age lines or static wrinkles 

Age wrinkles are caused by the aging of the skin. They appear in black and dark skin around the age of 40-45. Indeed, with age, the skin thins, loses elasticity and firmness, becomes dehydrated and more fragile. Because of its specific characteristics, the eye contour area is the first skin area to show the signs of aging with the appearance of this type of wrinkles. To attenuate them, you need an anti-wrinkle and anti-aging eye contour care product rich in plumping and moisturizing active ingredients.

The specific problem of eczema and psoriasis of the eyelids

Dermatoses such as eczema or eyelid psoriasis are medical conditions. They therefore require the advice of a pharmacist or a doctor to obtain an effective treatment.

Eyelid eczema

Are your eyelids dry, dehydrated, red and swollen? Do they itch and sometimes ooze? Then it is an eczema. It can occur according to two types of origin:

Contact or allergic eczema: Contact dermatitis is an inflammatory reaction created by the skin upon contact with an allergen. It can be caused, for example, by the application of a cosmetic product. 

Atopic eczema: Atopic dermatitis is hereditary. It is a genetic hypersensitivity to the environment (dust, pollen, animal hair, etc.)

Psoriasis of the face

Do you see flakes (white patches) and well-limited red spots around your eyes? Does this cause you to itch? This is the particular form of psoriasis called facial psoriasis. These clinical manifestations can also appear around your mouth, ears and the wings of your nose. It is a reaction of the immune system following an external aggression or stress for example. It is very often confused with seborrheic dermatitis, which is why it is important to

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