Some perfectionists take care to remove unsightly hair even in winter. Others are content to do hair removal only during the summer months. But when you have dark skin and are faced with the problem of pigment spots after hair removal, you have to remain vigilant. By simply wanting to have clear skin, you can expose yourself, without knowing it, to a significant risk of hyperpigmentation.

Knowing the causes of the appearance of these inflammatory spots is essential for changing your hair removal session, without necessarily revolutionizing your habits. Rest assured, it is possible to get rid of your hair with the classic techniques of razor, depilatory cream or wax. But you'll just have to make sure you follow certain essential steps.

From preconceived ideas to real tips, we explain how to keep your skin smooth and even this summer... or all year round! 

HAIR REMOVAL FOR BLACK SKIN: UNDERSTANDING THE ORIGIN OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation on dark skin is caused by a variety of factors. Shaving and hair removal are the cause of so-called post-inflammatory spots. Indeed, these techniques subject the epidermis to various risks: ingrown hairs, irritations, pimples, cuts and scars. However, it is possible to use them while avoiding these skin imperfections.

Understanding the phenomenon makes it possible to adapt one's hair removal routine to the specific needs of darker skin types. 

Ingrown hairs create inflammatory spots 

Traditional hair removal and shaving often lead to ingrown hairs on the bikini area, legs or underarms. This phenomenon is embarrassing and unsightly because it causes pain, itching, irritation and a rash.

The ingrown hair, once out of its follicle, does not make it past the dermis. This happens more frequently with fine or curly hair and/or skin with a thick horny layer. Very dry skin is also more affected. The openings are then blocked by scales. Dark skins can combine these factors simultaneously. In temperate climates, their tendency to dryness can even be accentuated and aggravate the phenomenon, because the air is much less humid than in intertropical zones.

Therefore, instead of emerging naturally from the surface of the skin, the hair continues to grow under the skin tissue. It deviates from its initial trajectory to twist itself into the canal. Since the space is too small to accommodate this spiral, a swelling is created.

This can lead to infection if the area is not cleaned and treated properly. From then on, the small ball formed by the ingrown hair can become painful. It is strongly advised not to pierce it to avoid unsightly marks (stain, scar).

In case of complications, it is even recommended to consult a dermatologist. Depending on the case, he or she will prescribe an anti-pilotic cream, antibiotics (taken locally or orally) or even extract the hair with a sterilized needle. A laser hair removal session may be proposed.

For women, this skin problem is more particularly located in the bikini area or underarms. These sensitive areas are more likely to develop irritation and hyperpigmentation. Unfortunately, the risk of blemishes is much higher for darker skin types. Please note: in case of recurrent cysts on these vulnerable areas, a follow-up in a dermatology office is essential. Do not try to treat yourself, as some conditions require special treatment.

Please note: in case of recurrent cysts on these vulnerable areas, a follow-up in a dermatology office is essential. Do not try to treat yourself, as some conditions require special treatment. 

Stains formed as a result of cuts during razor hair removal 

Razors have sharp blades. This hair removal tool is effective, but there is a danger of cuts or skin damage. On a large or fragile area, if you are hasty or careless, the risk of injury naturally increases. 

If something happens, the wound is likely to become infected and microbes can proliferate. For fair skins, cleaned without delay, these small cuts are without consequence. They are not really serious and heal very quickly. But for dark skin, healing can be difficult and longer. These wounds will then lead to the formation of pigment spots. 

Two parts of the body require great vigilance: the half-legs, particularly around the ankles and knees, and the bikini area. For the former, this is due to the presence of bony protuberances that are more delicate to apprehend. For the intimate area, shaving can be more complex. The gesture requires precautions because of the numerous folds, reduced visibility, and the thinness of the skin.

PREVENT THE FORMATION OF BROWN SPOTS DURING HAIR REMOVAL 

In the depilation or shaving routine, preparatory care is essential to prevent post-inflammatory spots. They act directly on the main cause of their formation: the development of ingrown hairs. Then, post-hair removal moisturizing combined with a targeted treatment against hyperpigmentation helps erase recent or established spots and prevent the emergence of new ones.

Acting on ingrown hairs at the origin of pigmentation spots 

Whether you have white, dark or black skin, the fight against spots caused by hair removal begins by preventing the formation of ingrown hairs. It is therefore advisable to tackle this condition preventively with various methods, including shaving. This is an effective way to act at the source, to reduce the appearance of ingrown hairs, or even eradicate them.

To achieve this goal, the first step is to disinfect the area before hunting for hair! Whether you prefer cold or hot waxing, depilatory cream or razor, this preparatory step is essential for all skin types.

During this ritual, the gentle exfoliation will then deeply cleanse the skin. It will rid it of impurities and dead cells likely to obstruct the pores. It is also possible to exfoliate with a special body brush on dry skin, before getting into the shower to wash and rinse.

From then on, this thorough cleansing will promote normal regrowth by preventing the birth of new ingrown hairs. Massage with a horsehair glove is not recommended. It is much too aggressive for dark skin and can even cause brown spots. 

Mastering razor hair removal techniques to avoid injury 

To avoid stains due to micro-cuts, in addition to the classic care related to hair removal, you should follow the advice specific to women's shaving:

• Choose a tool with fine blades, designed for women!
• Change your razor head frequently after 5 to 10 uses
• Use a shaving gel, shaving foam or a supergras soap to protect the skin
• Shave in the direction of hair growth
• Exfoliate 48 hours after hair removal

At the same time, it is important to note that certain areas require more dexterity and attention, such as the bikini area. If you lack time or are prone to clumsiness, opt for another hair removal method. Finally, to avoid the appearance of pimples, we remind you of one of the basic tips for soft and unified skin: do not expose yourself to the sun immediately after shaving, even with sunscreen!

Taking care of your post-hair removal skin: moisturizing and targeting spots 

Sometimes underestimated in the fight against pigmentation spots, moisturizing is in fact crucial after hair removal, whatever the method chosen. The application of a nourishing oil (sweet almond, argan, etc.) or a body lotion is not limited to D-day.

In fact, the lack of hydration before and after hair removal is often one of the factors responsible for ingrown hairs. Logically, if this problem is not treated properly at each stage, it will inevitably return.

This beauty routine, which is often forgotten in the hair removal routine, is therefore essential before and several weeks after. Every day, apply moisturizing cream all over the body. The massage will both soften the epidermis and the treatment will provide the nutrients essential to its original radiance.

The moisturizing milk can itself integrate a unifying action, without being lightening. Indeed, be careful when selecting your cosmetic product to avoid a harmful formula with potentially serious repercussions for the skin.

If hyperpigmentation of inflammatory origin has already set in, its management requires a specific anti-spot treatment. Traditional moisturizing can be reinforced by a targeted treatment designed to overcome this problem for darker skin types. And don't forget to apply your sun protection before each exposure. This is the first step in the fight against blemishes for dark, black and mixed-race skin!

Finally, more and more women are turning to an innovative solution that effectively avoids stain problems: permanent hair removal. Previously unsuitable for darker skin types, this procedure, which was exclusively reserved for dermatologists, has clearly evolved. It is now suitable for the specific characteristics of black and mixed-race skin.